What kind of problems does a Polaris Ranger EV normally have? In this blog, we’ve outlined all the most important things you should watch for when you’re in the market for a Polaris Ranger EV. In the rest of the article, we’ll discuss every single problem in detail. Furthermore, we’ll tell you how to identify it, fix it and how much it costs to fix. Read on!
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1. Battery Problems
Battery Problems are one of the most common customer complaints with electric vehicles. The Polaris Ranger EVs are no exception with customers reporting that the batteries don’t last very long. Electric vehicle batteries need proper maintenance and charging. So, in some cases, battery issues may occur due to customer neglect, including improper maintenance and charging.
For example, a customer says:
“My 2014 EV isn’t holding a charge as well as it once did, and it also shutters or hesitates when you slam the pedal to the floor. I’ve kept up with the batters somewhat well, but not as well as I should have. When I checked them lately, a number of them were fairly low…water far beyond the tops of the plates…I know…not good. Checked the load on the batteries, and the majority were between 12.3 and 12.6V. One was at 11.7V. I believe this is the source of the lower range and surge power. Do you have any ideas?”
Battery maintenance is essential, as is checking the water level. Top up batteries with exposed plates until the plates are completely covered. Don’t overfill because the water will expand when charged. Charge it again, but don’t check the voltage right away. The batteries must rest for a few hours to get a true readout. A reading of 11.9V means depleted, 12.0 is 25%, 12.2 equals 50%, while 75% is 12.4V, and 12.6V equals 100%.
You might try using a 12V charger to charge each battery individually. There is no need to unplug cords. You can test each of the batteries with an electronic tester. One or more of the batteries may be damaged if they won’t charge up to 12.6 or 12.4 volts and their specific gravity isn’t in the green when tested with a numbered hydrometer or four balls don’t float when tested with a tiny four-ball hydrometer. You may require new batteries. OEM Polaris Ranger EV battery replacement costs around $3000.00.
When changing out batteries, you can also:
- Clean the tray, batteries, terminals, wires, and contacts.
- Inspect all cables and replace damaged, corroded, or frayed ones.
- Use stainless nuts and lock washers to replace all cable terminal hardware.
- Place a Battery Mat underneath all the batteries. It lowers battery vibration and absorbs any spillage.
- Install an electrical battery level sensor on each middle battery bank and a visual battery level detector on the remaining batteries.
- Set up a battery watering system.
Check the battery level at least once a week and fill it every other week or once a month. Leave the unit plugged in when not in use.
2. Overcharging Problem
A customer complains:
“My 2019 Polaris was great at first, but the charger is now frying the batteries, and the motor is losing power. The charger is charging up to 68 V, which is MUCH too high; it should never go higher than 58 in regular operation and 60 only during equalization. I’m guessing it’s a design flaw.”
The algorithm on the EV charger comes with a factory default setting of 73. It can overcook batteries, resulting in reduced battery life and corrosion around terminals or battery supports. The DeltaQ charger is a stand-alone item with its Algorithms. So, you can change from the factory default algorithms to another built-in setting of your choice.
Algorithm 71 is preferred because it does not cook batteries, but it takes longer to charge. Also, 11 is a good algorithm, and it will charge somewhat faster than 71. Your charger may feature both 71 and 11, depending on the model year. You can find the guide on how to change the algorithm on the delta Q website.
There are two methods for checking and changing the algorithm on a QuiQ. The first is a manual procedure that includes the following steps:
Checking the present:
- Turn off the AC power at the outlet.
- Disconnect the positive and negative leads from the battery pack.
- After the power-on self-test, connect AC power, and the charger will display the charge profile number:
- All charge profiles will be represented by a sequence of flashes of the ‘80%’ LED light.
- The ammeter LEDs will additionally show charge profiles #1-6.
- The charge profile number will appear on the screen for 11 seconds before returning to regular operation.
- Disconnect the positive lead from the AC power source and reattach it.
Follow these procedures to modify the default charging profile:
- As indicated earlier, switch to charge profile display mode.
- Touch the positive lead to the positive terminal of the battery pack for 3.0 seconds (+/- 0.5 seconds) while the charge profile number is displayed—for 11 seconds.
- Detach the battery’s positive lead. The charge profile number on the charger will gradually climb to the next profile programmed.
- Repeat steps 2 and 3 within 30 seconds to progress the charge profile number.
- Touch the positive lead to the positive terminal and hold it there until the relay clicks to lock in the specified charge profile as the default. It will take approximately ten seconds to complete this task. Now you may save the new default algorithm.
- Disconnect the AC power source and verify that the default charge profile is active.
3. Power And Controller Problems
Power and controller issues are frequent Polaris Ranger EV customers complaints. Although the vehicles are for long-term use, they might become stubborn and unmanageable over time. Some customers claim they have trouble turning the Ranger EV on, even when fully charged. There are also concerns about the controller blinking even when the electric vehicle is not malfunctioning.
It can be a controller issue, but more often than not, one or more batteries aren’t working as expected. 80% of Polaris Ranger EV electrical problems, including power and controller issues, stem from poor grounds, bad connections, or damaged batteries.
For example, a customer reports:
“My 2015 Ranger EV is experiencing severe power loss while climbing uphill in the last several months. This isn’t a gradual drop in power as you would get if your batteries were gone or nearly dead. It is a jerking loss of power, in and out, in and out. It only happens to me while I’m traveling uphill. I suspect the problem is with the motor, transmission, or differential.”
The jerking begins when the batteries are unable to produce the requisite amperage. When one or more batteries become weak or don’t supply enough amps under heavy load, it acts as a breaker and causes a temporary loss of power. Also, when driving up steep banks or slopes, the EV may shutter or shut down. Check your connections and batteries; you may need new batteries.
Many customers report that when driving slowly and at high amps while climbing or towing, the battery compartment does not have enough ventilation, and the controller gets very hot.
For example, a customer says:
“My 2014 EV cuts out in low range when climbing hills. It now frequently overheats, although it rarely did when it was new. The dealer checked the batteries and flashed the controller. The first day it worked perfectly, but now it’s having the same problems. After barely 10 minutes of light driving, it overheats. The dash light indicating overheating only flashes, but it does not stop?”
The key to getting the most out of the EV Motor Cooling Fan is to turn it on before the warning light appears. For instance, you can turn the fan on automatically when the temperature outside exceeds 75 degrees or when climbing hills. Also, consider installing a high-speed fan behind the controller to pull air from under the seats. It combines with the radiator fan to ensure sufficient airflow over the major parts, including the drive motor.
If the overheating persists, get help from a resourceful dealer or an experienced technician. You can get EV Cooling fans for $65.99 onwards.
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